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Class 1 Scout (Another aluminum body!)
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Thread: Class 1 Scout (Another aluminum body!)

  1. #1
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    Class 1 Scout (Another aluminum body!)

    This is something i started a while back but just now got to post it.

    I had this SCX10 based scaler i acquired some time ago. I'm not sure who built it but it was a good truck and i wheeled it a lot but it was very heavy and fell into class 2. Since I already had my Toy for class 2 I decided I needed something for class 1.

    Here is how it sat before i started




    Now i had a new body that came with the truck and after placing it i realized the wheelbase was off



    After some new links I had the wheelbase i was looking for



    I also removed the cage




    With a clean chassis i started on the new body.

    Of course, me being me, I couldn't just use the lexan body and since I've been wanting to try making molds from a lexan body i gave it a go.

    the process is fairly strait forward. pick a section of the body and make a dam



    pour the resin right into the body



    and pop it out



    Then I cut along the hood lines



    and after some cleaning made a test panel



    Then i repeated the process



    I did the side panels in 2 pieces and then trimmed them



    I fitted the front to the back



    Then trimmed out the door and rocker.



    There is still some trimming and sanding to do but it's coming along

    Oh and here are the grill and rear tail sections. they came out good as well.



    More later

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  3. #2
    Webmaster Tin Soldier's Avatar
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    I still would love to do this some day. I just love the idea. Where do you get the resin ?

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  4. #3
    Some call me fat Jesus. DIRTY's Avatar
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    Friggin awesome

    "If the American people ever allow private banks to control the issue of their currency, first by inflation, then by deflation, the banks and corporations that will grow up around them will deprive the people of all property until their children wake up homeless on the continent their Fathers conquered...I believe that banking institutions are more dangerous to our liberties than standing armies... The issuing power should be taken from the banks and restored to the people, to whom it properly belongs." -Thomas Jefferson
    rikkles - i'm loving this nitro jazz, its's dirty, smelly, and fast. much like marc


  5. #4
    Super Moderator rik's Avatar
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    Blake, you make this look so friggin easy. It pisses me off Lmao....great start! Can't wait to see more!

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Soldier View Post
    I still would love to do this some day. I just love the idea. Where do you get the resin ?

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
    The resin is smooth cast 300 from smooth-on Smooth-Cast® 300, 300Q, 305, 310 Product Information | Smooth-On

    Thanks guys. This project may be a little slow. I'm working on other stuff right now but i did get a little progress.

    I started by trimming the front grill

    Followed the body line on the side



    Then the bottom and top where the hood was



    Then i wanted to do a test run but i quickly realized my typical method of forming was not going to work



    The draw was so deep i couldn't get it to pull without folding so i had to go a different direction

    I started with an impression



    then i flipped it over, placed it on a soft surface and began stretching the metal close to the shape of the grill



    This allowed me to draw the metal further around the grill



    And after some more work i had the look i was after with very little folding



    Here is the final result





    Then i repeated the process for the rear corners



    Oh, and i couldn't resist testing some rock rash



    This truck is going to be fun

  7. #6
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    A little heat ( very little ) might help. there is a term for it,........ but I can't spell it. ( aneiling? )

  8. #7
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    The metal is already annealed when i get it. Adding heat as i work it may help since the act of chaping the metal makes it a bit harder. It worked out ok though. I'm happy

    I got a little progress on the body

    I finished the grill mold by drilling out the head lights and using a drill press with an X-Y vice and a milling bit to open up the grill opening



    Then i drilled out the rear corners for the tail lights



    The cool thing is the roll bar light lenses from the high lift fit perfictly



    Next i finished shaping the metal



    and tested the fit of the lens



    Then i test fitted the panels together starting with the rear quarters



    Then clamped the rest of the panels together so i can start figuring out how to do the rest of the inner panels




    And a quick test fit on the chassis







    Not too bad. But i need to do something with the tranny. It's not going to cut it in there



    That's next on the list

  9. #8
    Sage member PontiacGT201's Avatar
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    Dang Blake Always doing amazing work. looks great

  10. #9
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    Thanks man!

    Like I said in my last post, I need to do something with the tranny. Mainly because the truck won’t have a roof (I don’t have time to make the molds for it) so I need to free up the space for an interior.

    I also don’t want to physically alter the frame rails in any way, so everything needs to bolt on. Why? Just to see if I can do it.

    I began by swiping the T-case from my Willy’s, seeing how it fit on the skid, and moving the tranny forward.



    The T-case works but i wasn't sure about the tranny.

    I contemplated several positions for the tranny. At first I placed it upright above the front axle. Although it does work, it places the CG pretty high and doesn’t leave very much room for a dash



    Next I tried it with the motor facing up. This provided more room for the interior but actually moved more weight higher in the chassis. I want to keep the CG as close to the original layout as possible.





    Finally I settled on flipping the tranny and placing the motor down. This looked to be the best solution as it keeps the weight low and still provides room for the firewall and dash.




    Happy with the position I started on the mount by making a bracket to fit inside the frame out of heavy plate.



    Then I added the plate for the tranny with a small stand-off







    The fit was good and only slightly interfered with the drive shaft at full stuff.



    Next was the T-case mount. To do that I used some sheet metal, bent it to shape, Then drilled some holes



    and mounted it using existing hardware,




    I’m happy with the layout and after some test driving it seems just as capable as before.

    The last thing I did was change the power plant. The 45 turn motor was just too slow with the combination of small tires and the gear reduction of the T-case so I threw in the 19 turn triple from my Willy’s jeep. Now it crawls good and still has some wheel speed when I need it.

    More later

  11. #10
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    With the drivetrain sorted out it was time to turn my attention to the body again.

    I want to finish this fairly quickly so I can wheel it before the weather gets too cold ( and because I don’t want it to drag into a 3 year odyssey like my other truck! LOL!) For this reason I’m going to loosely base it off the real truck. Even though the 1 to 1 is very simple in it’s understructure design (basically everything is flat panels) I’m still going to omit some details and take some creative liberty on how parts get assembled for the sake of time.

    Here are some pics of my old 63 I used to have to give an idea of what I’m shooting for





    To start I needed to establish the floor to build everything off of so after some measuring and referencing photos, I created a mold of the shape of the floor.





    Something else I’m doing different with this truck, compared to my others, is the use of heavier metal for all the understructure. This is going to be a sort of test bed for how the metal works both in shapeability and strength.

    Before I started the inner fenders, I needed a filler piece to attach the bed area to the tail panel. Since it needed to match the tail panel I used the same mold and added a short brake.





    Next were the inner fenders. Being basically a flat box I only needed to make some simple bends and as luck would have it the strait edge I was using was the exact size I needed so I just free-handed the panels. No molds were necessary. I started with a sample piece to figure out the size and shape Test fitted it.





    Then made the final parts and glued them to the floor



    I also added some reinforcements to stiffen the bed floor



    Behind the taillight is a small filler panel. Using the strait edge again, I created the part I needed and did a quick test fit to make sure everything works.



    Once I had the panel in place I realized the LED was going to be too long to allow the lens to fit, so I trimmed it down



    Then fitted it in the tail panel



    It just barely fits and will need to be glued in before the inner fenders are attached.



    I won a 3racing light kit at a comp a while back so I decided to add it to this truck. It has blinkers but since the truck is pre 68’ the turn signals are in the tail light. To give it the illusion of a single light I squeezed the small turn signal bulb in the light reflector.



    Before I test fitted the inner fenders I needed to make the door sill. Not wanting to make more molds I scribed a line in the rear quarter mold and formed a panel.





    The scribed line gave me a reference to where to shape the inner flange using the door mold. I’ll make a mold for next time but for now it gets the job done.



    Test fit is good



    With that sorted out I test fitted the inner fenders to the quarters



    After checking the fit I did some minor tweaking and attached the rear ¼’s on for good.



    Looking good so far I must say. That's it for now. More later

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